Yanoun

Countryside bliss

This is my third placement and it's very different from the two previous. Yanoun is tiny and very pastoral. The village only has about 100 inhabitants, but makes up in numbers of sheep, goats and chickens. The villagers live mostly from the produce of the animals and the income they can generate from their olive groves, fruits and vegetables. It is very "bonderomantisk". Everything smells of sheep though.

Cacti fruit, so-called prickly pears. Good for digestion apparently, but not very tasty...

After five years of continuous violent attacks by the settlers from the nearby Israeli settlement of Itamar, all the villagers of Yanoun were forced to leave in October of 2002. Israeli and international peace activists took notice and established themselves in the village in order to prevent the settlers from taking it over. The villagers returned apprehensively, one family at a time. A deal was made that there would be permanent international presence in Yanoun. So, that's basically why we are here.

Gottfried and I watching settlers parading through the village on Shabbat

The house we're living in is... well, as one previous EA described it: authentic. There is no internet connection in the village. But we have all the ameneties that we need: running water and shower, electricity, cooking facilities and mosquito nets. So I'm not too bothered by the standard. And having spent quite a few nights in the cave dweller community of Susiya, the various animal noises during the night don't bother me too much. I do bless my ear plugs though.

The people in Yanoun are friendly and open. They must have met numerous internationals throughout the years. Still, they make you feel special and welcome. They invite us for dinner, for tea and coffee, give us bread almost every day, they smile and joke despite their situation and are helpful in every way. I admire their spirit, but sense their sadness under the surface. Having met so many lovely people with such a bleak future over the past few months is really starting to wear on me... Yet, I cannot even begin to imagine how they feel.

At the moment, it's the almond season. Picking almonds is quite a strenouous affair. Climbing trees and searching the ground on all fours is a bit too physical for my taste. And all the work that follows takes a lot of time. First, shelling the almonds, then drying them in the sun, and lastly cracking them open. It is a very social affair, though, and many cups of tea and coffee are consumed. However, I've gone off almonds for now. No marzipan for me this Christmas.

Shelling almonds and drinking tea with Um Hani