Some last words...

... from Abu Mazen.

A farewell to the countryside

I'm spending my last days in Jerusalem, doing very little. I feel exhausted now (not to mention quite ill), so it feels good to have left all the EA tasks behind me.

I am a little sad that my emotional capital was rather strained before I moved to Yanoun (Hebron tends to do that to you). I couldn't get as invested in the people there as I would have liked to.

Yet, I will always remember Adla and her numerous children as some of the most genuine and kind people I have ever met. I'm really, really happy that I've lived in Yanoun. Even though I'm not cut out for country life.

And yes I know, I've gone a bit soft.

Burn baby burn!

I have encountered the remnants of Sharon's cousin. No, I'm not talking about a middle-aged conservative Israeli. I'm talking about fire bombs made by settlers and used against Palestinian homes in the West Bank. Last month settlers from the Yitzhar settlement tried to attack the Palestinian village of Burin with rockets. They were poignantly named Sharon I and Sharon II. Luckily, the Sharons failed to reach their targets. Yesterday however, the settlers took more care in their aiming.

They attacked a Palestinian home in the same village in the early morning hours, throwing several fire bombs through the windows. I arrived with my team mate Gottfried in the afternoon and was taken to the targeted house situated at the outskirts of the village.

The damage was substantial, especially in the bedroom. Everything was charcoal and the room smelt of burnt wood. The sight of the burnt-out crib made us both uneasy. The family's savings of 20 000 Jordanian dinars, hidden under the mattress, had gone up in smoke.

There are no words for this kind of behaviour. Except maybe one. Terrorism.

(Al-hamdulillah, the family was away for a wedding! I kinda hope the settlers were aware of that. It makes me think them a little more human).

I ♥ Dabka

Traditional Palestinian dance, dabka, is commonly danced at weddings. Huge groups of men, young and old, come together and just let loose. It is so wonderful and liberating to see these Palestinian men - especially the younger ones, whom I usually meet suppressed and serious at checkpoints - having fun. I loved it!

And the women can dance too. If you wonder where all those skin-baring dresses hanging in the clothes shops and on the streets are worn, I can reveal to you that they are displayed at women's wedding parties. And lord do these girls know how to move their hips! But that's for female eyes only. And husbands. Sorry guys...

A tribute to Gottfried

This is Gottfried's third term with EAPPI. A minister by profession, you might expect his sense of justice to be strong. Yet, I am in awe of this man's lifelong determination to make changes for the better. In my head, I secretly refer to him as our freedom fighter.

His enthusiastic commitment is visible to total strangers too, something I witnessed first hand when we did a presentation together for YMCA in Beit Sahour, outside Bethlehem. I am telling you, the man was on fire! Afterwards a Palestinian in the audience just walked up to him and hugged him. I think that says it all.

We've striked up quite a lovely relationship, Gottfried and I. Despite my lack of knowledge on theological matters, we've spent many hours talking about everything and nothing. So, here's to Gottfried! Er ist ganz wunderbar!

Yanoun

Countryside bliss

This is my third placement and it's very different from the two previous. Yanoun is tiny and very pastoral. The village only has about 100 inhabitants, but makes up in numbers of sheep, goats and chickens. The villagers live mostly from the produce of the animals and the income they can generate from their olive groves, fruits and vegetables. It is very "bonderomantisk". Everything smells of sheep though.

Cacti fruit, so-called prickly pears. Good for digestion apparently, but not very tasty...

After five years of continuous violent attacks by the settlers from the nearby Israeli settlement of Itamar, all the villagers of Yanoun were forced to leave in October of 2002. Israeli and international peace activists took notice and established themselves in the village in order to prevent the settlers from taking it over. The villagers returned apprehensively, one family at a time. A deal was made that there would be permanent international presence in Yanoun. So, that's basically why we are here.

Gottfried and I watching settlers parading through the village on Shabbat

The house we're living in is... well, as one previous EA described it: authentic. There is no internet connection in the village. But we have all the ameneties that we need: running water and shower, electricity, cooking facilities and mosquito nets. So I'm not too bothered by the standard. And having spent quite a few nights in the cave dweller community of Susiya, the various animal noises during the night don't bother me too much. I do bless my ear plugs though.

The people in Yanoun are friendly and open. They must have met numerous internationals throughout the years. Still, they make you feel special and welcome. They invite us for dinner, for tea and coffee, give us bread almost every day, they smile and joke despite their situation and are helpful in every way. I admire their spirit, but sense their sadness under the surface. Having met so many lovely people with such a bleak future over the past few months is really starting to wear on me... Yet, I cannot even begin to imagine how they feel.

At the moment, it's the almond season. Picking almonds is quite a strenouous affair. Climbing trees and searching the ground on all fours is a bit too physical for my taste. And all the work that follows takes a lot of time. First, shelling the almonds, then drying them in the sun, and lastly cracking them open. It is a very social affair, though, and many cups of tea and coffee are consumed. However, I've gone off almonds for now. No marzipan for me this Christmas.

Shelling almonds and drinking tea with Um Hani

Another placement, another team

These are my colleagues for the next one and a half months. Clockwise from left you have Audrey (nurse) from England and Colin (minister) from Scotland, Gottfried (minister and freedom fighter) and Christian (?) from Germany, and Paula (graduate) from Sweden.

We will share our time between Yanoun and Jerusalem, working from a rotation schedule. I will start with a two week stint in Yanoun before taking some time off.

Last night with my team

Beautiful Mohannad

My teammates are all leaving whilst I'm going to Yanoun. So yesterday, the two Swedes (who actually get a salary) took the two unpaid EAs out for dinner at a very nice (though not very serviceable) restaurant in West-Jerusalem. Jean-Marie and I ate all that we could muster, knowing that the bill would be taken care of by "söta bror och söster".

Unfortunately, Katarina was feeling a little ill and left us early. But is-shabbab and I continued to a bar to have some drinks. As the night wore on, the boys became more and more intent on singing "the Hooky Kooky" - a song/dance routine very similar to "Fugledansen". I'm sure they've left a lasting impression with the female bartenders.

Anyhow, I must say I've been beyond lucky with my team mates. My heart ('if I have one at all' - statement from another former team mate...) swells with happiness by the mere thought of the sensitive and clever Mohannad, the warm and funny John-Jamal, and the kind and vivacious Katarina. Thank you! Bahebbkum, kull!

Flanked by lovely Katarina and handsome John-Jamal

Third time's a charm

Breaking the Silence was finally allowed to enter Hebron today. Nevermind that they had to bring along about fifty borderpolicemen to guard them. I wonder how much the participants actually got to see of the city over the broad shoulders of the protective human wall. But at least they witnessed the true colours of the settlers, who, infuriated by the 'deceit' of the Israeli state, resorted to aggressive behaviour.


The borderpolice stood their ground. Settlers were pushed away and even to the ground. I believe Mohannad and John-Jamal were extremely pleased to see a particular settler, an 'aquaintance' of ours, bite the dust.

Unable to reach the tour group participants, the settlers turned their attention to other non-jewish bystanders. i.e. us. Having lived and worked in Hebron for almost three months, the settlers know our faces well, and ahem, let's just say that they don't harbour any warm, mushy feelings towards us. So, upon spotting my male colleagues, some of them came over and made threatening remarks, rattled their M16s and displayed a rather hostile body-language. As good EAs, the boys knew their limits and pulled back.

Now, I wonder though, if all of this is just for show. Drawing on today's episode, the police will be able to claim that the presence of Breaking the Silence is a disturbance to civil order. It is very convenient. Then they can deny them access for good.

Mitjawwez inte? (Are you married?)

I am staying on for an extra one and a half months. Thus, I had to renew my visa. I had the choice of going back to Norway or take a quick trip to Jordan. Since I've never been to the Hashemite kingdom, I went for door number two.

Jordan was HOT. Jeez louise! Btw, I'm talking centigrades, people, in case you set out to misunderstand. When Paula (a Swedish EA who is also staying on) and I arrived in Aqaba, we could barely move. So we were mainly lying flat on our beds praising the AC. It turned out that Aqaba had limited appeal, so we moved on up north to the ancient city of Petra.

Petra is old. I'm not sure exactly how old, but its foundations are at least a couple of thousand years old. We walked amongst giant reddish stone buildings trying not to let the heat get to us. I will tell you that the 800 or so steps up to the Monastery helped me lose a few kilos of liquid. Good thing there was a Mövenpick resort just outside the excavation area, where we could regain our strength with not so tasty Jordanian wine after a day of exploration.

Petra was indeed grand. But what sticks with me is the image of those young, stout desert policemen patrolling the area. Clad in their sandy robes with fire red pistol holsters, Jordanian ḥaṭṭah and shiny daggers, they must be breaking many a bedouin girl's heart when out with the Camel Corps. I'm quite smitten myself to tell you the truth. I'm so gonna marry a shurta is-sahra!

Abu Snanah

Abu Snanah is apparently the biggest family in Palestine. My team and I encountered a tiny branch of this clan in Hebron last month, initally under very unfortunate circumstances.

Mohammad, 6, was walking home with his brother Hussein from his grandmother's house in the Old City. On the way they ran into two older settler kids. Just as the boys passed one of the military checkpoints, one of the settlers picked up a stone and jammed it into Mohammad's head. He started bleeding heavily. His brother tried to stop the bleeding, but being unsuccessful, he took Mohammad home. In the end, the boy ended up in hospital with three stitches to his head.

When we met Mohammad, only a couple of hours after the incident, he seemed shocked and scared. He was terrified of strangers and just kept staring blankly into the air when his parents asked him questions. Not even candy made him react. And that usually works here.

We heard a week later that he was having trouble sleeping and was waking up from nightmares since the incident. So, we decided to visit the Abu Snanah family to see how Mohammad was doing.

It turned out that in addition to Mohammad and Hussein, there was a set of crazy five-year old twins living in the family's house. Hani and Hadi are not the parents' biological children, but the children of a relative.

Visitor Gustav playing with the boys

All four kids became hyperactively excited about our visit. Johannes and his Swedish visitor, Gustav, made the boys even crazier with their many initiatives. They threw them around, climbed on the roof together, tickled them, joked in Arabic and made the children wild with excitement even over a piece of dust. It was great to see Mohammad laugh and play again. He was calmer than the others, but seemed genuinely happy.

After two very physical hours, mixed with some cuddling, we decided it was time to leave. The mother invited us back for a meal later, and the kids kissed our hands and touched them on their foreheads (a gesture of respect). I believe both the family and we were happily exhausted when we left.

Hani or Hadi

The Abu Snanah family has come to occupy a special place in my heart. I love it when their dirty kids are climbing all over me, feeding me tea or resting their head on my lap. These little boys, already marked by the occupation, still show me - a stranger - complete trust and affection.

I respect the soft-spoken parents who mildly chides the boys when they get too wild. The father's unemployment is hard on their economy, but they never mention it. They just give us what they have, be it RC Coke or chocolates. They just seem so happy to be noticed and seen by someone from the outside. There is nothing we can do for them, other than be there. And for that they seem grateful.

Though the Abu Snanah family is the biggest in Palestine, it must be tightly connected. Someone from EAPPI's office was out in the Old City in Jerusalem when she ran into someone from another branch of the Abu Snanah family. After she told him about her connection to the programme, he smiled and thanked her for our visiting his relative in Hebron. Det er jungeltelegraf det!

Beach time

Getting sunburnt in Haifa

Apparently, the colour of my feet is getting close to black. It is not that odd though, because in addition to my face and hands, it is the only place upon which the sun can always shine. Living in the West Bank equals long sleeves and trousers, even when it's scorching hot.

But I've been spending some time on the beach. A few days in Jaffa with a couple of my team mates in May, and now some days in Haifa during Israeli Exposure Week. Unfortunately, there is a jellyfish invasion at the moment which has made it impossible to swim in the sea. Rumour has it they are Egyptian...

Jean-Marie - film noir cool

I must admit though, the best thing about days off is that I can rip off my West Bank clothes and wear haram outfits all day long... Gotta love it!

Drinking hot (!) sangria in Jaffa

Ya Mohannad!

If I told you this guy was Turkish, you would frown and tell me "No, he's gotta be a 'stekare'!" (a priveleged Swede from Stockholm with slick hair and preppy clothes who hangs out at Stureplan with HRH princess Madeleine). But no, this Turkish actor, named Kivanç Tatlitug, is the star du jour in Palestine as the male lead in the Turkish soap "Noor".

He plays Mohannad, husband of fashion designer Noor. The series is a huge success in the Arab world. I have watched a couple of episodes, and I understand why it's easy to get intrigued. Let me just give you a recap of two and a half episodes:

Noor is kidnapped, Noor kills the kidnapper after he tries to rape her, Noor is imprisoned and finds that she's pregnant, Noor is released, she gives birth, she has a disagreement with Mohannad and separates from him, they are both involved in a car accident and reconcile.

I think "Days of our lives" has something to learn with regards to the pace of the storyline. As far as I know, Noor and Mohannad were happy in yesterday's episode.

Extremely popular (and influental?)
Everybody watches it. Everybody talks about it. Even grown men are glued to the TV-screen. Studies on the phenomenon of "Noor" shows that the tv-series popularity stems in part from it being the only escape from reality for those who have but the world of television to resort to. Its lavish interior sets and heavy consumption of hair products definitely helps to up the glam factor. But when I ask the average Palestinian woman or girl why she likes the show, she gets a dreamy look and just goes: "Ya (oh) Mohannad!".

Regardless, the fact remains that Noor and Mohannad are on everybody's lips. Hence, it's possible to find their faces on any merchandise you can imagine. You can even buy Noor and Mohannad crisps...

Apparently, the series has had another effect apart from the purely commercial boost. People keep telling me all these stories about couples who have divorced because the women have started to act like the independent Noor. Maybe we have a femenist revolution on our hands, courtesy of a Turkish soap opera?

Sderot

I've been to the Israeli town of Sderot. Sderot is the most common target of Qassam rockets from Gaza. I was told that the citizens feel neglected and marginalized and think that the Israeli government could do more to protect them. Ironically, Sderot is also the home to many Palestinian collaborators from Gaza whom Israel has resettled inside her own borders.

Unfortunately, I don't have too much to say about the visit. After meeting Noam, the director of Sderot Media Centre - a man who consistently referred to the everyone in Gaza as 'terrorists' and painted a very vivid black and white picture of the conflict - nothing I was told and shown really made the impression it could have if Noam's language had been a bit more subdued. Such flaming introductions might appeal to some, but it had the opposite effect on a person who has been living in the West Bank for the past five months.

Dear Noam, I came to Sderot wanting to hear about the Israelis who are living in the line of fire. I wanted to know your concerns and thoughts, your view on the situation. What I did not want was a lecture on how evil the people in Gaza are. Sorry, Noam, but you shot yourself in the foot.

I do not want to undermine the fear with which the people of Sderot are living. I can see that it is unbearable to live in such a situation - worrying about your family and your home. At the same time I couldn't help thinking about the others who are living with similar kinds of fears and in much worse conditions - only a kilometre or so away. Fenced in and without the bomb shelters that the people in Sderot are provided.

The cost of resistance

Tamaam in her tent after the attack

Susiya is a small community consisting of about 20 families. Traditionally, the people of Susiya have been cave dwellers, but since the Israeli army demolished their caves and expelled them from their original site, they have been living in tents. Situated right next to their current location is an Israeli settlement, also called Susiya. The settlers living here are driven by religious and ideological motives, making them a constant threat to the surrounding communities. This settlement and all the other settlements in the West Bank are considered illegal under international law.

It's Sunday afternoon in Susiya. Imran and his wife Rabiha are out grazing their sheep together with Imran's aunt Tamaam and her husband Khalil. They move a couple of hundred meters away from the tents that make up their little community, around a bend and out of sight to the others. Suddenly, six masked young men with wooden bats and clubs come storming up towards them.

It is over quite quickly. 57-year old Tamaam is lying unconscious on the ground after having been hit and kicked in the head, face and torso. Her right arm and jawbone is broken. Khalil is bleeding from the head. Imran and Rabiha are badly bruised after several heavy blows.

This incident is not uncommon in the South Hebron Hills. Settler attacks occur weekly. It is the settlers' attempt to drive the Palestinians out of the area. Our EAPPI team met Tamaam and Imran a few days after the attack in their tents. They told us what had happened: Two settlers had come up to them before the attack and told them to leave within ten minutes. They refused. After all, the land belongs to the family. The price of resistance – broken bones.

What is uncommon is that it was filmed by a family member and published worldwide. Since January 2007, the Israeli human rights organisation, B'Tselem, has distributed 100 cameras to families in Palestine, of which 30 are given out in the Hebron area. The so-called 'Shooting Back' project aims to expose human rights violations and to give Palestinians in particularly vulnerable circumstances an opportunity to document violence and humiliation.

Whether this video material will lead to any kind of prosecution of the attackers is uncertain. Another Israeli human rights organisation, Yesh Din, has documented that such attacks are increasing and happening on almost a daily basis. In 2005, 90 percent of the 299 complaints were closed, whilst another 5 percent were lost and never investigated. The same year, Israeli organisations received 599 complaints. I have personally witnessed several incidents that have never been reported.

I see the unrest and fear that this kind of life instigates in the children living close to settlements. They jump at sounds, hide behind their parents when strangers arrive (quite unlike other Palestinian children), and they have nightmares. Such invisible wounds might be more difficult to heal than the physical ones that Imran, Rabiha, Khalil and Tamaam suffered.

The EAPPI Hebron team provides protective presence in Susiya and other communites in the South Hebron Hills. We stay with families overnight, especially around Shabbat (Saturdays) and on Jewish holidays, when the settlers tend to be most active.

Any Palestinian's story

Tuesday, May 27th, at 2.45am. All is quiet at Nayef Hashlamoun's home. He and his family - his wife and their five children, ranging in ages from 12 to 20 years in age - are fast asleep. All of a sudden the whole family wakes up, they hear noises, they hear people rattling their front gate, they hear shouting and then loud hard knocking noises at their front door. Nayef gets up, turns on the lights and opens the front door, the frightened family right behind him. Eight Israeli soldiers are standing on the porch of his house, pointing a gun at him. They tell him they want to see his ID.

Random interrogation
Then Firas, the oldest son, is taken out of the house. Firas, who is 18 years old, is not allowed to put any shoes or other extra clothing on. He is ordered to give his mobile phone number and told to turn himself in to the Israeli Intelligence office for interrogation by 9am the next morning. Firas has an exam at Hebron University at that time, so Firas' father Nayef asks the commander to postpone the appointment until the afternoon. The Israeli officer refuses, after which he leaves with his soldiers.

The morning comes and Nayef and his son Firas goes to the appointment in Kfar Etzion. Firas has his picture taken. He is also asked if he is involved in any kind of political activities. Since that is not the case, he is allowed to leave the place two hours after getting there. The University gives him the chance to do his exam two days later, but still stressed from the incident, Firas fails it.

- My house and home have always been open to people from many different countries and religions. If the Israeli authorities behave like this with us, how do they then behave to other Palestinians?, he says relieved, yet also upset.

A Second Bad Surprise
Besides being a Reuters Press Agency senior-employee, Nayef has also been involved in peace activism for more than twenty years. In 1988, he founded the Al-Watan Center in Hebron. He is still the director of this organization, which provides workshops and training in civic education, conflict resolution and non-violence. To attend seminars about non-violent action, Nayef has travelled abroad many times, especially to the United States.

This spring Nayef received a scholarship to participate in a peace building program from June 2nd to June 20th at the American University in Washington DC (USA) and also in the summer program at the Fletcher School in Boston (USA) the last week of June. His son Firas, who has been involved in non-violent peace activism since he was a young boy, was invited to join his father Nayef. Yet a second bad surprise for Nayef and his family occurred after the military raid: the Israeli military authority did not give him the permission to go to Jerusalem, where he had an appointment at the American Consulate on May 28th to get a visa.

- It is the first time ever that I am not allowed to leave the West Bank. I have travelled many times and never had any problem of this kind. The Israeli administration justify their decision with their standard answer - "security reasons", he says.

No access to Jerusalem
Nayef is 54 years old, and he never had any kind of security or criminal problems. He never went to jail, and he has worked with non-violent peace activism for over twenty years. For him, all of this is starting to sound like some bad joke. Yet it is not. Nayef and his son reapplied for the permit to visit the American Consulate in Jerusalem on June 10th. Once again their permit request was denied. So the plane left without Nayef and his son Firas to Washington DC (USA) on the 1st of June. For Firas it would have been his first time abroad.

Since 1993, the Israeli authorities have introduced a permit regime that restricts access for Palestinians who hold West Bank IDs to East Jerusalem. With the outbreak of the second Intifada in 2000, a series of military checkpoints and obstacles have been set up to enforce this permit system. The construction of the Barrier has made the access even more difficult. Permits are only issued for a specific reason i.e. to work, to study, for family reunification or a certain social event. Yet according to the United Nations' Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs, the permit applications are often refused on the basis of security, without any further explanation.

What happened to Nayef Hashlamoun (and his family last week) is his personal story, yet it is far from unique. His story is one which can be heard over and over again all over Palestine.

This article was written by John Jamal Pellaux. Merci beaucoup, ya habibi!

Denied access. Again.

A settler boy tries to block Yehuda's filming

Breaking the Silence tried to enter the city again today. Unsuccessfully. About 40 settlers blocked the bus with cars, prams and children. Some of the women sat down in front of it and started reading the Torah, whilst other men were walking around with their cameras and their guns trying to intimidate the tour group. The police and army wandered around aimlessly like confused chickens.

Female settlers reading the Torah in front of the bus

My team and I were waiting for the bus to enter Hebron so we could join the tour, as we were unable to finish it the last time we tried. Quite a few EAs from other placements were on the bus this time, we could see them peering out through the bus windows, looking bemused.

A young settler had travelled from Jerusalem with the sole purpose of stopping the bus from entering Hebron. He came over and told us that we could never understand the settlers since we are not Jewish. Then he expressed a wish to hang us from the trees in the nearby field. We politely pointed out that the field, and consequently the trees, belonged to a Palestinian aquaintance of ours. A little annoyed by our resistance to be willingly executed, he exclaimed "Go to China! There they shoot people like you." The young man seemed rather fond of China and a little disappointed with Israel. "Israel is crazy," he insisted, "they don't shoot you Nazis."

A young settler from Jerusalem amuses Jean-Marie and Johannes

After two hours of back and forth between Yehuda and the police (very similar to the last display), the bus turned around and once again went to the South Hebron Hills with three police cars on its tail. We could only wave to our colleagues and smile with a shrug of surrender. Maybe next time.

Last day of school

Last day of school. Singing, dancing, memory books, gifts, laughter, tears... From today and for about two and a half months, the kids won't be going to school. Some tell us they will study on their own, a very select few plan to go abroad, but most say they will be bored. There are plans to arrange a summer camp at the school in July, but the funding from the Palestinian Authority seems uncertain.

Summer holiday at the Cordoba school means that our team will have more freedom to pursue other activities in the Hebron governate. That, I'm looking forward to...

Keep them silent

Yehuda Shaul being filmed by settlers Anat Cohen and Ofer in front of the Gutnick Centre

It is surprising how much ruckus one Israeli can create in Hebron city centre just by his mere presence. Yehuda Shaul, one of the founders of Breaking the Silence – a group of former Israeli soldiers – was in Hebron to give a tour of the city where he was formerly stationed as a commander.

Breaking the Silence reveals some of the things that soldiers have to do whilst serving in the IDF, like terrorizing families at night, harassing Palestinians at checkpoints and torturing detainees, often without any legitimate reason. These revelations make the group very unpopular among certain Israeli factions. As you can imagine, the Hebron settlers aren't their biggest fans.

The tour bus was stopped in front of the Gutnick Centre - the settlers' local shop and information centre - where the some infamous settlers, flanked by Israeli police, were waiting for us. The bus wanted to keep moving down Shuhada street - a street that is closed to Palestinian vehicles, but in practice completely closed for any Palestinian movement at all - into the Palestinian neighbourhood of Tel Rumeida.

The police told us to all get off the bus. Stepping out, Yehuda, pulled out a video camera and started filming the settlers. Simultaneously, the settlers produced several video cameras themselves and were filming Yehuda filming them. It was very bizarre. All the while, Jewish songs were blasted from the loudspeakers of the Gutnick Centre.

A strange game, which both parties seemed to know way too well, ensued. Yehuda was discussing with the police officers asking them if they had a legal reason to prevent him from moving on with the tour. At first, the police tried to use common reasoning with the "c'mon, don't be difficult. we're on the same side" kind of arguments. Noticing that this failed, the police tried to appeal to Yehuda's concern for the tour group, claiming that they would be unable to ensure our safety if we continued. Finally after an hour or two, the police had bought enough time to be able to produce a paper declaring the area a closed military zone.

In principle, that means that no civilians are allowed to be in such an area, and consequently, we were banned from entering the zone. However, settlers kept walking uninterrupted up and down Shuhada Street to and from their settlements.

Breaking the Silence has been denied access for several weeks. They had to turn around this week too. But they will be back next Friday to try again, all the while fighting their case in the Israeli court system.

The tour eventually ended up in the South Hebron Hills, police in tail. A little disappointing for us who already know the area, but at least Jean-Marie got to fly a plastic bag kite and I got to play with the cutest, most emaciated kitten I've ever beheld.

Apparently, many photos and video clips of internationals and israeli peace activists end up on the Hebron settlers' website together with all the other documentation on 'nazi-leftists' (that's not an expression to cover all political affiliations, it's an actual word that they use, the clever (oxy)morons sorry got carried away...).

Accompaniment

Here in Hebron, accompaniment takes on a very literal meaning. Due to the constant threat of violence, we are present every day when the students of the Cordoba school in Tel Rumeida walk to and from school. We stand at two of the several checkpoints these children, some as young as six, have to pass. Soldiers, however, are not the main problem.

The school is situated right next to Beit Hadassah settlement. This was the first Israeli settlement in the Old City of Hebron, and it is inhabited mainly by ideological and religious settlers. Over the past few years, the children, as well as the school building, have been attacked by settlers on several occasions - one of which was documented by previous Swedish EA Terje Carlsson. Lately, such attacks have decreased and the number of students have more than doubled since 2006. According to the principal, Reem As-Sharif, this is due to the introduction of new precautionary routines and better cooperation with the Israeli police, but she also attributes a great part of it to EAPPI's protective presence.

Because Palestinians are unable to use the former main road in Hebron, Shuhada street, the children have to walk through checkpoints to get to school

In the beginning, we were just greeted with a few shy 'good mornings' and a quick glance from the younger children. Children in Hebron's Israeli controlled H2-area seem to me to be a little more apprehensive about strangers than the average West Bank kid. It didn't take long, however, before they warmed to us and 'Jamal' (Jean-Marie) and 'Mohannad' (Johannes) was shouted from every corner of the school yard. Now there are gifts and hugs and smiles all over.

Our visitor Erik from the Jerusalem team won the hearts of the boys in an instant

South Hebron Hills

South Hebron Hills

The South Hebron Hills houses some of the most marginalized communities in the West Bank. These are mostly cave dweller or bedouin communites that are extremely vulnerable to the Israeli policies that aim to remove the Palestinians from this area. Since most of these communities fall under Area C (Israeli civil and military control), house demolition orders on caves or tents or wells are common.

This girl relies on a sustainiable future in Um Al-Kher bedouin community

No livelihood
We visited Um Al-Kher, a small bedouin community right next to Karmel settlement, with OCHA. The bedouins are surrounded by the settlement on three sides, and all buildings, but one, have demolition orders. That also includes the very primitive tent structures and the shacks for the animals.

In addition, the bedouins are not allowed to go grazing with their animals too close to settlement land. In a dry year such as this, that means grazing options are easily exhausted and buying fodder is the only way to keep the animals alive. However, fodder prices are very high, and the only way for the community to survive is to sell some of their animals to feed the others. Not a sustainable way to live in the long run.

As a result of the restrictive situation, the 21 families here are dependant on food aid from UNRWA. The only reason they are not evicted, is that they can prove they own the land on which they live. What the settlers seem to be hoping for is for the situation to get so bad that they will leave the land voluntarily.

One of the family fathers tells us about the dwindling options for a sustainable life

Water and gazelles
The South Hebron Hills was initially planned to end up on the Israeli side of the Wall. But a high court decision ruled that the route should more or less follow the Green Line. Continuous attempts have since been made by settlers and the army to empty this land of its Palestinian inhabitants.

Parts of the western aquifer lies under the South Hebron Hills. Many people suspect that this is one of the main reasons why there are strong Israeli interests in this area. For the Palestinian population living here, however, water resources are becoming less and less accessible. As settlements expand and swallow Palestinian wells and the Israeli authorities reject all Palestinian applications for building new ones that go deep enough to reach the ground water, water shortage is becoming more and more of a pressing issue.

It is worth noting that the Wall has not been completed in this area. An Israeli environmental group has expressed concern about the movement of the gazelles if the Wall is erected all around the area. So the building has been put on hold until an asessment is available. A gazelle is worth more than a Palestinian. Sad, huh?